Butcher and Slaughter tire combo

Hey Lee, hope all is well…

I came across your review of the Specialized Butcher/Slaughter and find it to be a very interesting set-up.

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Mastering Mountain Bike Skills 3rd Edition is here!

They say the third time is the charm, and that might be true for the book Mastering Mountain Bike Skills. The first two editions set the standard for MTB skills books. The third edition … well … this is a whole new level.

Learn more and get your copy of Mastering Mountain Bike Skills 3rd Edition >>>

Foot placement and body position


The other day I was working with a client on the big pump track at Valmont Bike Park, and we were having trouble getting him into a proper hinge. His form was perfect on the RipRow, but on the bike he was collapsing into the classic bad squat position: knees forward, butt forward, quads hot, glutes cold, shoulders high. As a result, his pumping was choppy and weak.

This guy was moving great off the bike. On the bike … not so well. I see that every day in classes, but I can usually fix the issues quickly. This was … different.

Then I noticed how his feet were on his pedals.

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27.5+ tires for XC racing?

Hey Lee!

Hope all is well! In the market for looking for a new racing bike, but the 27.5+ is attracting me a bit. It can be converted to a 29er hardtail and/or a single speed and is theoretically said to have the same ride quality characteristics as a full suspension. Do you think it is worth considering as a race bike in any configuration 29er and 27.5+? I believe Conrad Stoltz raced a 27.5+ in XTERRA once and killed/shredded it, but again, he’s a mutant, so what about us mortal people? =) Any thoughts?

Thank you!
Neil

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“My RipRow™ practice is making these moves so easy.”

Tait Rees, 40something husband and father, has been working the RipRow™ and skills classes all spring — and he is on a shred mission.

Tait is an expert mountain biker and an A-class (the highest class) motorcycle enduro racer. 

“I’ve never ridden this well,” he says. “This is a whole new level.”

Learn all about RipRow™ at www.riprow.com

It’s all about the anti-row

Learning a no footer

Will the Pumptopia pump track fit in my space?


Lee, how are ya?! I have a couple questions for you: I’ve finally pulled trees out of a spot and received permission to lay down a pump track. I was initially thinking of using the same dirt I am going to pull from the ground to level the hill, but I am wondering if maybe investing in already screened loam would be a better option, as I will undoubtably run into rocks and other debris, as I am building. So, my first question is, approximately how many yards of material am I looking at to properly do Pumptopia at its original estimated size? 2nd, I am trying to decide if the footprint will work in my spot. It is a rough rectangle approximately 88’ x 57’. I see in the overhead photo that a part of the track extends out, opposite of the straight away. Am I correct in assuming that would be the depth of approximately 55’? Thanks a lot Lee!

Jeff

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Sizing down when you get a new bike


Lee – So I played around with the RAD calculator at the Lee Likes Bikes MTB School for my Pivot LES and proposed rocky Mountain Element. Both bikes on the small come out spot on for the RAD but the reach and rise are too short and tall respectively for the bikes compared to the calculations using the XC or Trail setting, so I end up with more of an Enduro setup.

The Rocky Mountain size guide has me on the end of small or beginning of medium and one of the Michigan shops I called recommends sizing up. However when I enter the dimensions for the M Element frame in the RideLogic™ bike calculator, the RAD gets too big. In the comment section you say the RAD is more important than reach/rise in terms of priority. Any additional thoughts?

Scott B


Scott!

Thanks for reaching out, and for being a member of the Lee Likes Bikes MTB School.

The core tenant of the RideLogic™ Bike Setup Method is matching the distance between your bike’s bottom bracket and grips to the distance between your feet and hands. This is called the Rider Area Distance. Since I’m in charge, I call it the RAD.


Rider Area Distance (RAD).

The secondary measurement is Rider Area Angle in Degrees (RAAD). This is the angle of your RAD compared with level. RAAD tends to vary with the type of bike. Low RAAD for an XC race bike; high RAAD for a downhill bike.


Rider Area Angle in Degrees (RAAD).

In my experience, RAD is most important measurement by a mile. Any bike with a perfect RAD and a reasonable RAAD rides great.

If you go for the larger frame, the reach can be so long it’s hard to get a short enough RAD. If you can get the RAD correct, the RAAD will end up low, and you’ll end up with a bike with a long, “XC” feeling cockpit. For most riders this will not feel good, especially on fun terrain. In my work with lots of folks, almost everyone, no matter their riding style, prefers a higher RAAD like you find on an enduro bike.

Modern bikes are getting longer and longer. More specifically, their reaches (horizontal distance from bottom bracket to top of head tube) are getting longer. In many cases, the stacks (vertical distance from bottom bracket to head tube) are also getting higher. It’s very common that riders need to “size down.”

Everyone: Before you buy a bike, plug your numbers and your bike’s numbers into the RideLogic™ calculators. They are available, along with tons of great skills lessons, with a Lee Likes Bikes MTB School membership. You can use the same calculators, and the RideLogic™ on-bike test, to dial in your current bike.

My new medium 2017 Enduro, which is amazing, is 20mm longer than my medium Stumpy. While I got the Enduro’s RAD within a few millimeters of perfect, the cockpit is too long for me, and it’s giving me a hard time. If my shoulders were healthy it wouldn’t be such a big deal, but this is hurting me so much that I think I’m going to return the free bike and try to get a small.


2017 Specialzied Enduro Öhlins Coil. This is an awesome, amazing, impressive machine! It’s just a bit long for me.

I hope that helps,

Lee


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Yet another reason for a great attack position

MTBers: A great hip hinge and attack position is important!

The farther back your hips are, the less stress you put on your knees. Bonus: You get more power from your hips, and your shoulders are lower so you have more control of your handlebars.

This video from REVO Physiotherapy and Sports Performance (my doctors in Boulder, CO) makes a great point.

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Descend like a predator chasing prey

Our friend Ryan W just posted some very nice comments on my private coaching page.

“I am excited to go fast and under control. I fear nothing.”

“… the best investment I’ve ever put into mountain biking.”

And more. Check it out:

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Feel your butt for extra pedal power


I live near the top of a mountain. It’s about 1,200 vertical feet from downtown Boulder to my house, with a peak grade of 17% and a whole lot of painful memories strewn about.

Overall I climb it faster and easier than ever. Some days … some days I fly! It’s so easy.

Other days … many days … I suck.

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