Send questions to lee@leelikesbikes.com
Lee,
I have noticed that wide and flat is the new riser. It seems that everyone from DH guys to rigid singlespeed riders are rocking the wide flat bars. What gives is this the latest fad like dayglo lycra and 150mm stems or is there a true benefit to rocking this set up.
E
Hi Lee,
I wrote a while back asking advice about hopping the dreaded bucking log. I’m still having some timing issues to get a solid bunny hop going, but after picking up MMBSii, I’ve realized there’s a ship load of pumping and cornering technique for me to master that are really improving my flow! I’ll conquer the log some day.
Anyway, I’m having a hard time with “V” shaped terrain: Steep 15′ or so down to a tiny creek with a few rocks and then back up the other steep side. The bottom of the “V” is narrow enough that my front tire starts going up the other side before my back tire is done going down.
I’m having a very hard time figuring out what to do with my body position and bike while making the transition at the bottom. In fact, I’m not really sure what I’m doing. As the rear tire hits the rocky bottom, I seem to have all 200+ lbs of my weight multiplied on it, making a rough transition that ends up with a pinch flat 1/3rd of the time (that’s better than a few years ago before practicing the heavy feet technique when the forks would bottom out and almost through me over the bars!).
I know you are a busy man with the family and your various bike-related events, but I would be stoked to learn the technique for this type of terrain!
As a side note – I have a hardtail 29er and keep my seat at XC height.
Thanks Lee!
– Eric
I want to get into any racing that includes bikes like 4x and dual slalom however there are absolutely no compettions in Ontario
I live near Toronto
any suggestions…cause it would really help
Jake
A recent coaching client, an ultra XC racer, just got back from Diablo Mountain Bike Park with his son. He came back with questions:
Hi Lee!
I’m hoping you could help explain gear ratios and maybe shed some light on which gear ratios are unnecessary. Here’s the situation:
I have a customer that is using the Sram Red compact double (50-34). In the back she is using the new Sram Apex long cage rear derailleur. She is also using a Sram PG1070 10speed casettte in a 11-32. She is interested in switching out the 11-32 cassette to a 12-36. For some reason, I’m thinking that running a gear combination of 34 small ring to a 36 in the back doesn’t make sense. I think what that means is that she would essentially “spin out” OR her gearing in that given combination is too low. Her rebuttal was that her other bike was a road triple with a 22-32-52. However, she was running a 11-28 10sp to go with the triple. I’m wondering this:
Does she just not want to exert any effort climbing or is it useless to run a gear combination of 34-36?
Hopefully these questions make sense.
Congrats on the new book!
Daniel
Hi Lee,
I’ve been a fan of your site and 1st edition for a couple of years now. I’ve learned a lot from both your site and book which has put my riding to a new level. Unfortunately, there’s been a particular issue that’s put me on the ground a couple of times recently and I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. It involves going downhill on a fairly steep and long, fairly supported berm. Generally I’m trying to turn harder than the berm, so I’m leaning the bike, not the body into the turn and pushing pretty hard. I keep “heavy feet, light hands” in mind and look ahead and through the turn towards the next trail feature. Somehow my front wheel manages to tuck in the same direction as the turn, which stops the bike and sends me over the bars. It happens so fast that I don’t even know what happened until I’m on the ground.
Fortunately, I’m wearing my full face helmet and protective gear so I haven’t had any serious injuries but I’d like to try and figure out exactly what’s going on so this can stop happening. I’ve considered if it was just line choice (loose stuff in the turn?) or front/aft weighting (front wheel too light?). I’m riding a Santa Cruz Blur 4x which is a pretty slack and low and likes to rail turns.
Thanks!
-Joe
Hey, I’m going to Northstar this weekend to race in the beginner’s (junior) class (karpiel, speed control, sticks & stones). This is my first time racing DH and I need some tips. I will be riding my Trek Remedy. I already have a chainguide, 28″ bars, 40mm stem, a RS lyrik, and 2.3 DTC nevegals F&R. Thanks!
Joseph
Lee-
We finally were able to get going on the design for our city bike park.
Based on the information I got from your book, I’ve come up with the attached preliminary lay-out for the pump track. I wonder if you can take a few minutes and provide your input. To be honest with you, I’m not totally in love with it, but this is about the 5th incarnation.
I have roughly 175’x115’ set aside for the pump track. I’m almost worried that this is too big. What do you think?
I appreciate whatever input you could provide. Thanks!
Corey, Professional Engineer
Hey Lee,
I’ve been looking at your website a little bit, and you seem to really understand how to coach mountain biking. I live in the Bay Area (south of San Fransisco, CA), and was wondering if you know of any good instructors in the area. Also, if not, in your opinion do you think it is possible for me to teach myself using your book or do I really need an instructor?
Thanks,
Caleb
Hi Lee,
I have a Giant reign that I use for trail riding, light downhill (medium sized jumps up to 6′) and really rocky trails. I’m already running a 2×9 system (24/36) with a bash guard but no chain guide. My question is: Is it a good idea to use a chain guide for the kind of riding I do or are chain guides primarily for gravity riding? Some days, I do 25 milers all on single track. So, I don’t want a lot of resistance. Do these things cause restistance or do you barely notice it? I was thinking about the E13 DRS. Please let me know your thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Walt
Hey Lee,
I was at Sol Vista a few weeks ago and had a question about proper technique for max speed/smoothness/what-have-you. There are a lot of berms that have what seems like a jump or bump leading up to them. If you go even moderately fast, it seems pretty much impossible to entirely suck up the bump. So, I figures proper technique would be to pre-jump the lip, land on the backside and pump into the berm. However, I saw some people who appeared to be much faster than I am (at least they were clearing long tables that I couldn’t) who looked like they were just blasting off of the initial bump and slamming into the berm.
What’s the right way to do it?
Thanks, Scott
After breaking his ankle, our compadre John asked about keeping his feet on the pedals while he jumps. Now he’s asking about the angle of his feet on the pedals.
Another good question.