Send questions to lee@leelikesbikes.com
Hey Lee,
I may be selling my full suspension bike this year and I am considering going back to riding a hardtail. I’m pretty interested in the P.1 All Mountain after seeing it on the Specialized website. Have you gotten a chance to ride it yet? If so I would like to know how it compares to the other P.1 as a one-bike quiver.
By the way, Welcome To Pump Track Nation rocks! I start construction on my pump track my next day off!
Mahalo,
Keoni
Lee,
I was wasting time surfing the internet dreaming about snow/ice free trails when I found one of those 10 Trail Tips You Need To Master type articles on the Mountain Bike Action website (I’m not a huge fan of MBA, but I was killing time). The list was all of the basic stuff you always read (i.e. looking ahead etc.), but they also had one tip of “Riding 80” meaning riding at a 80 rpm cadence. MBA said, “80 is the most efficient cadence you can use to turn the cranks over,” and that “That is the perfect compromise between muscle force and aerobic power.”
I have never really paid attention to the cadence that I average on a ride, I just try to ride what feels best and pushes my limits. Do you think that there really is an optimum cadence for mountain biking, if so is it the same for every rider? Do think that actively setting/monitoring cadence goals during a ride will improve ability?
Thanks,
Dave
In Chris Q’s comment on The most effective intervals … ever?, he asked, “What do you think of intervals done on real terrain as opposed to trainer?”
Awesome question.
Our friend Rob is wondering about a few Maxxis options, plus you know I have a Specialized idea.
Yes, at least in the beginning. Read on:
Hi Lee: I’ve been feeling too stretched out and too far forward on my bike. I want to get a shorter stem but I have a Cannondale and they’re pretty expensive, so I want to get the right one. I have a 120mm stem now. Not sure if this is a daft question, but can you recommend what length I should go down to? I was thinking either 80 or 90mm. I guess it probably won’t make that much difference which… Thanks for any advice. Simon
Hi Lee,
I have a couple of questions about titanium springs for your rear shock. How much weight savings do they provide over a steel spring? and do they feel “plusher?” also, If i have a 500 lb steel spring and i wanted to get a ti spring, would i need to get a 500 lb ti spring? or do ti springs require a heavier or lighter “lb”. than steel?
Thanks, Matt
Lee,
I love your book and site. You really know how to break down riding skills into digestible bits.
Last weekend I was able to attend a suspension clinic with the guys at PUSH Industries, they are super knowledgeable and great guys. They took the time to review our suspension set ups and had me slow down my rebound on both my front and rear suspension.
They said that most riders ride with way too fast of rebound. I have found that the slower suspension has definitely helped me feel smoother on the pump track, but it is harder to get as much pop on bunny hops. What is your opinion on suspension dampening and what tips can you give me to improve my jumping on a full suspension bike with more dampening.
Also I can’t wait to buy MMBS II do you have an ETA on the date that it will be available.
Keep pinning it,
Dave
Hey Lee, you mentioned that you have a “cheapo Performance trainer with power meter”. What brand/model is this? The cheapest trainer with a power meter I can find is in the $1750 price range, which I wouldn’t really consider cheapo!
thanks…Rob
Lee, sweet bike and the MMBSii photo is pretty rad. (See what he’s talking about.)
Random question: bars. Low, med, high? Looking for something a little wider than my current setup and I remember being super-comfortable right away on your P-bike and the SX.
Eric (who did some skills clinics with Lee)
Lee,
I’m at a loss with climbing while riding with friends…I just can’t push a bigger gear and I can’t spin a smaller gear fast enough to keep up on climbs…I can bomb the downhill single track just fine but when it comes to climbing I just get left in the dust…and it doesn’t matter if it’s fire road, technical climbing, or just non-tech single track…it makes me just want to shuttle so I don’t look so weak…very frustrating.
So I know part of the deal is overall fitness level…I need to ride more, but it doesn’t really seem to matter how much I ride I still can’t keep up on climbs. Also it doesn’t matter what bike I ride…I have a full on xc bike @ 25lbs and I have an all mountain 6″ travel # 34lbs and I still get left in the dust…so I tend to lean toward the 6″ for the DH fun factor but on longer 18+ miles rides I go xc (most of the time).
What do you suggest to help me climb in a larger gear and or just keep up on climbs? Please point me in the right direction.
Regards, Lance – Sacramento
Hey Lee,
Congratulations on the twins, hope the family is doing well.
Lennard Zinn of VeloNews has written several recent articles addressing brake chatter on cross bikes. It sounds like 1-1/2-inch tapered forks help tremendously and several companies are moving in that direction (including Specialized on MTB and Road bikes).
I am wondering how the Carbon Tricross does with fork shudder when braking hard and is Specialized going to move to a tapered fork on the Tricross as they have done on the top of the line MTB and Road bikes?
Cheers and Happy Holidays!
Jafar