Hi Lee, how’s everything going? Busy with release of book and Riprow at the same time I guess.
I have a question about Enduro 29 coil
I just rode the “old” Enduro 29 Comp and for the lack of a better expression “it blew my fucking mind”. Me and my friend rode a lift accessed, proper downhill trail a few times and on the 4th or 5th run after I got quite familiar with the track we swapped bikes. Now he was local, he knew every corner. So for first few runs I had a hard time staying just behind him. We are same size very similar weight so we didn’t turn the dials much. Not only i did not need to get used to his bike, I felt more confident right away, I left him behind like hell. I wasn’t doing almost any brake checks, just open gas all the way, braking hard in tighter corners or switchbacks. And hey, Switchback and wagon wheels? No problem, that thing was equally swift as my “smaller bike”. Not only that, I was fresh, I felt like I could do the whole 5-6 minute track without stopping.
Now The only thing Enduro was worse at, compared to my somewhat boutique 27,5 super bike, was suspension. Enduro was not as forgiving for big hits. Landings were a bit wobbly. Later on I had to rent another 650B bike to chcek if my setup isn’t crap. It wasn’t.
So finally to the point… is latest Enduro with Öhlins coil, as fresh to pop around yet buldozer when asked as the old one? And is suspension noticeably better?
I still have goose bumps cpoming up when thinking about that bike…
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What would you suggest that won’t break the bank? I have $500 to spend.
I weight 225 lbs. Like to hit the jumps at the local bike park (Rockburn) and go through and not around stuff. Live in Maryland. Ride allot at Patapsco.
Do I need 34 mm stanchions? It is my one bike quiver.
Hope all is well! In the market for looking for a new racing bike, but the 27.5+ is attracting me a bit. It can be converted to a 29er hardtail and/or a single speed and is theoretically said to have the same ride quality characteristics as a full suspension. Do you think it is worth considering as a race bike in any configuration 29er and 27.5+? I believe Conrad Stoltz raced a 27.5+ in XTERRA once and killed/shredded it, but again, he’s a mutant, so what about us mortal people? =) Any thoughts?
Lee, how are ya?! I have a couple questions for you: I’ve finally pulled trees out of a spot and received permission to lay down a pump track. I was initially thinking of using the same dirt I am going to pull from the ground to level the hill, but I am wondering if maybe investing in already screened loam would be a better option, as I will undoubtably run into rocks and other debris, as I am building. So, my first question is, approximately how many yards of material am I looking at to properly do Pumptopia at its original estimated size? 2nd, I am trying to decide if the footprint will work in my spot. It is a rough rectangle approximately 88’ x 57’. I see in the overhead photo that a part of the track extends out, opposite of the straight away. Am I correct in assuming that would be the depth of approximately 55’? Thanks a lot Lee!
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Lee – So I played around with the RAD calculator at the Lee Likes Bikes MTB School for my Pivot LES and proposed rocky Mountain Element. Both bikes on the small come out spot on for the RAD but the reach and rise are too short and tall respectively for the bikes compared to the calculations using the XC or Trail setting, so I end up with more of an Enduro setup.
The Rocky Mountain size guide has me on the end of small or beginning of medium and one of the Michigan shops I called recommends sizing up. However when I enter the dimensions for the M Element frame in the RideLogic™ bike calculator, the RAD gets too big. In the comment section you say the RAD is more important than reach/rise in terms of priority. Any additional thoughts?
The core tenant of the RideLogic™ Bike Setup Method is matching the distance between your bike’s bottom bracket and grips to the distance between your feet and hands. This is called the Rider Area Distance. Since I’m in charge, I call it the RAD.
Rider Area Distance (RAD).
The secondary measurement is Rider Area Angle in Degrees (RAAD). This is the angle of your RAD compared with level. RAAD tends to vary with the type of bike. Low RAAD for an XC race bike; high RAAD for a downhill bike.
Rider Area Angle in Degrees (RAAD).
In my experience, RAD is most important measurement by a mile. Any bike with a perfect RAD and a reasonable RAAD rides great.
If you go for the larger frame, the reach can be so long it’s hard to get a short enough RAD. If you can get the RAD correct, the RAAD will end up low, and you’ll end up with a bike with a long, “XC” feeling cockpit. For most riders this will not feel good, especially on fun terrain. In my work with lots of folks, almost everyone, no matter their riding style, prefers a higher RAAD like you find on an enduro bike.
Modern bikes are getting longer and longer. More specifically, their reaches (horizontal distance from bottom bracket to top of head tube) are getting longer. In many cases, the stacks (vertical distance from bottom bracket to head tube) are also getting higher. It’s very common that riders need to “size down.”
Everyone: Before you buy a bike, plug your numbers and your bike’s numbers into the RideLogic™ calculators. They are available, along with tons of great skills lessons, with a Lee Likes Bikes MTB School membership. You can use the same calculators, and the RideLogic™ on-bike test, to dial in your current bike.
My new medium 2017 Enduro, which is amazing, is 20mm longer than my medium Stumpy. While I got the Enduro’s RAD within a few millimeters of perfect, the cockpit is too long for me, and it’s giving me a hard time. If my shoulders were healthy it wouldn’t be such a big deal, but this is hurting me so much that I think I’m going to return the free bike and try to get a small.
2017 Specialzied Enduro Öhlins Coil. This is an awesome, amazing, impressive machine! It’s just a bit long for me.
I hope that helps,
Lee
Know more. Have more fun!
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Lee,
I am an intern with the City of Temecula’s Planning Department, and we are currently in the early phases of researching and planning to build a pump track. I have been tasked with compiling research and gathering information regarding important “do’s and don’ts” of designing pump tracks.
We’ll be ordering a copy of your Pump Track Nation book soon, but I was wondering if there are any specific things you would say a city should prioritize, avoid, or otherwise keep in mind throughout the design/build process?
Thank you,
James Thomas
Planning Department Intern
City of Temecula
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Here’s what I am thinking – would like your input as I am getting a new bike [Mikkel, a Specialized ambassador, has been riding a Stumpy 6Fattie for the past year].
Epic – for XC racing and long rides
Camber 29er – perfect for the Santa Monica trails
Enduro 29er (with a 6Fattie wheel set) – for bigger riding (mount Wilson and shredding)
I am thinking of getting rid of the stumpy in favor of the Enduro.
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Lee,
I have an interesting question for you.
You are coming down a single track on the side of the mountain, and there is a typical tight switchback, narrow and 330 degree turn.
How do you tackle this without loosing too much speed and not going down the hill 🙂
Greetings Lee. I am in the process of having a custom hardtail frame built, I have some questions about fit, seat tube angle, pedaling efficiency & comfort. Seems like a lot of makers are going with shorter stays and steeper 74* seat tube angles to keep the rider weight centered. My Builder thinks that a true 73* seat tube angle will work fine with short stays. Of course I want to be sure about the geometry.
Wondering what your take is on the steeper seat angles paired with shorter stays – certainly for short rides they can keep the rider in a good spot, but does that come at price – less engagement of the glutes & lower back, and thus less ideal for longer days in the saddle, for example?
