I have always wanted a new 36 van 180, but have always been on a budget (i’m 17 years old). I was on pinkbike and some guy was selling a fairly new 36 van 180 RC2 for $650. Only issue is, there is a small chip in the stanchion. I was wondering if the price of the fork would be worth it for me to buy it as is. I want to know if you think there will be any repercussions for buying this fork. Do you think this small chip will affect the fork? (the seller claims it has no effect on the fork) Here is a link to the pic: http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/5800314/
https://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpg00leelikesbikeshttps://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpgleelikesbikes2010-11-15 09:56:142010-11-15 09:57:09Purchasing used fork with chip in stanchion
I just finished reading my copy of ‘Mastering Mountain Bike Skills’ and would like to express my gratification about the quality of this book. As a Jack of all trades (master or none!), I enjoy many different hobbies and love the learning process, too. Your book is THE best book on skills instruction that I have read over ANY subject. Your attention to detail, depth, and delivery of experience is spot on; furthermore, your passion flows through the book. I really enjoyed reading this book.
‘Mastering Mountain Bike Skills’ has improved my MTB skills tremendously. I live in the SF Bay Area where there is a plethora of beautiful places to bike. My new skills have allowed me to further explore and enjoy this paradise I live in.
I have read elsewhere that handlebars should be 1″ below or about even with the saddle height. On my 6″ travel all mountain type bike the fork has adjustable travel. If I need to weight the front end while climbing I can lower the fork. Going downhill I can put the fork back up and stay more behind the bars keeping my hands light and feet heavy. I run a short 70mm stem and 1.5″ rise bars which puts the bars about 1″ higher than my saddle and seems to work great. I tried lowering the bars by removing spacers and felt like I was leaning too far forward going downhill which felt a little sketchy. Is it considered more of a personal preference thing or is this even important at all?
Hi Lee
I just finished reading your book “Mastering mountainbike skills 2nd ed” Great read. My first ride after reading about attack position was way better than ever b4. In the attack position does it matter which foot is in front and which foot is in the back? For youe buyer demographics I am a 48 year old married dude who likes to rip it. I bought the book at a local Chapters store.
Sincerely
David V
Lethbridge Alberta CANADA eh
I’m looking to buy a downhill bike. I am currently looking at a stock 2007 demo 7 that’s going for 1500. The owner does say that there is a small dent on the down tube “an inch long and a third of an inch deep”. I am a light rider (130 lbs) and I’m wondering if this will affect the integrity of the frame, and if the asking price is reasonable.
Thanks
Joseph
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I’m curious to what BMX bike would you recommend for me. I’m 43 and been out of the sport since 1985. I was an local semi pro (17+ expert/a-pro open) until I broke my knee and moved on to MX and three/four wheelers and then eventually national level Jetski racing. I see bikes have changed. My son is now 5 and riding and I’m going to get him a Micro, he has few normal BMX bikes now, but I don’t know what adults are riding? I’m not really interested in a 20” right now, I remember cruisers being cool back in ’85. I’m 5’ 10” and going to weigh 170 in a month or two! I do have a couple of MTB’s I race now and then. Giant Anthem full suspension and a GT Zaskar race hard tail.
Also, I raced MX for many many years and the front brake was the most important brake and when I raced BMX (at least 4 times a week) we used the front brake, tracks look faster than the old days. What gives the new bikes don’t come with front brakes?
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I have noticed that wide and flat is the new riser. It seems that everyone from DH guys to rigid singlespeed riders are rocking the wide flat bars. What gives is this the latest fad like dayglo lycra and 150mm stems or is there a true benefit to rocking this set up.
https://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpg00leelikesbikeshttps://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpgleelikesbikes2010-09-12 17:10:222010-09-12 17:10:22Wide and flat is the new riser
It was some time ago, that I talked to you about learning to jump and drop. Well I am proud to report that I finally learned, and am finally comfortable. The last two weekends we rode Winter Park, and for the first time I just rode all the jumps and drops with all the confidence I needed. My braking and cornering needs work, but at least I have visible progress in my riding skill. I guess I will have to read Mastering Mountain Bike Skills 2nd Edition, the first edition help me a lot with my skill progression. I now try to ride more relaxed (tea cup fingers), weight in my feet (huge for jump take-offs and not getting bucked off), and looking beyond my front tire. So thanks, and keep up the good work.
I wrote a while back asking advice about hopping the dreaded bucking log. I’m still having some timing issues to get a solid bunny hop going, but after picking up MMBSii, I’ve realized there’s a ship load of pumping and cornering technique for me to master that are really improving my flow! I’ll conquer the log some day.
Anyway, I’m having a hard time with “V” shaped terrain: Steep 15′ or so down to a tiny creek with a few rocks and then back up the other steep side. The bottom of the “V” is narrow enough that my front tire starts going up the other side before my back tire is done going down.
I’m having a very hard time figuring out what to do with my body position and bike while making the transition at the bottom. In fact, I’m not really sure what I’m doing. As the rear tire hits the rocky bottom, I seem to have all 200+ lbs of my weight multiplied on it, making a rough transition that ends up with a pinch flat 1/3rd of the time (that’s better than a few years ago before practicing the heavy feet technique when the forks would bottom out and almost through me over the bars!).
I know you are a busy man with the family and your various bike-related events, but I would be stoked to learn the technique for this type of terrain!
As a side note – I have a hardtail 29er and keep my seat at XC height.
I want to get into any racing that includes bikes like 4x and dual slalom however there are absolutely no compettions in Ontario
I live near Toronto
any suggestions…cause it would really help
Jake
https://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpg00leelikesbikeshttps://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpgleelikesbikes2010-08-19 20:34:072010-08-19 20:35:19A 4X/DS fool with nowhere to race
https://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpg00leelikesbikeshttps://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpgleelikesbikes2010-08-15 21:02:252010-08-15 21:02:25Flat pedals and rim tape (unrelated)
I’m hoping you could help explain gear ratios and maybe shed some light on which gear ratios are unnecessary. Here’s the situation:
I have a customer that is using the Sram Red compact double (50-34). In the back she is using the new Sram Apex long cage rear derailleur. She is also using a Sram PG1070 10speed casettte in a 11-32. She is interested in switching out the 11-32 cassette to a 12-36. For some reason, I’m thinking that running a gear combination of 34 small ring to a 36 in the back doesn’t make sense. I think what that means is that she would essentially “spin out” OR her gearing in that given combination is too low. Her rebuttal was that her other bike was a road triple with a 22-32-52. However, she was running a 11-28 10sp to go with the triple. I’m wondering this:
Does she just not want to exert any effort climbing or is it useless to run a gear combination of 34-36?
https://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpg00leelikesbikeshttps://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/leelikesbikeslogoheader.jpgleelikesbikes2010-08-09 17:11:232010-08-11 09:56:03A bit about gearing
