I downloaded your on-line book a few weeks back and we have just
started shaping the pump track in our backyard. Man, it’s going to be
sweet. Anyhow, I was wondering which tires you recommend. I know I want
something fast with low rolling resistance but I probably also need a bit
of tread. What are your thoughts on the Maxxis Holy Roller, Kenda K-Rad,
and Intense MK2? Other suggestions?
Hey, I was wondering how I could ever face my fear of jumps. When I was 12, I ate major sh*t and got the breath knocked out of me for what felt like an hour. Ever since then, I have always been hesitant do jumps/drops. I know I have the skill to jump, but I can’t overcome this fear inside me. How should I get back in the air?
Joseph
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Hi, I have a Specialized Enduro SL Pro from 2007. I am thinking of replacing the wheels, but can’t find what the hub spacing is. Also, I heard something about Specialized off setting the drop outs. Did they do this with the Enduro as well?
Thanks
Joseph
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I have a tire question for you. I’m running Specialized Purgatory 2.2 rear, tubeless and low pressure (~20-25 psi) and it kills for traction – best tire I’ve run so far. My terrain is New England trail and traction is really a major concern (wet, loose, shaley, slippery, you know what I’m talking about) – outside of rider skill, traction is typically the number one factor for cleaning a section or not.
So the question is about what to run up front. I would like to try a 2.4 Purgatory, but, this is trail riding and I guess I wonder if 2.4 would be overkill? I’m not racing but I don’t want to have to deal with pushing a ton of extra rolling resistance (I am assuming a 2.4 would have more rolling resistance than a 2.2). But, like I said, the ability to keep momentum via cleaning sections is huge and ultimately perhaps outweighs (sic) the weight penalty and rolling resistance of the fatter version? What do you think!?
Random second question – will you thrash a Stumpjumper FSR 29’er anytime soon?
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My son wants to start racing super d at diablo in there first time beginner class. my question is does he need a collar like i see the downhillers wearing? also what about a chest protector? He is 13 and bullet proof.
I realize that they are expensive but much cheaper than being paralyzed.
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Hey Lee, I am 13 year old kid and I’m going to be racing in the Sea Otter XC. Do you have any tips for me for the race? I have raced the CCCX xc race in similar terrain, so I know there will be a sh*t load of sand. I ride a 2007 Rocky Mountain Element 70 with Specialized The Captain s-work tires. What is the proper way to ride through deep sand? How should I pace myself through the race? Should I use a Camelback? If so, should I bring a spare tube/ tools, and if so, what should I bring?
Thanks
Joseph
I just bought a 2010 Specialized Enduro Expert. I’ve been looking into a few different options to drop a little weight. I’d like to get it under 30 lbs. Right now it weighs about 32. One of the options I was considering was swapping the Lyrik 160mm fork for a Revelation 150mm or a Fox Talas 32 150mm, which would instantly drop a pound off the bike. This bike is designed around a 160mm fork, so I was wondering what changes I could expect if I did swap the fork out, positives and negatives.
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Gear related question: How does the new Stumpy compare to the Enduros of yesteryear? 2003 vintage, and 2005-6 vintage? I know you’ve rawcked them all, and I’m wondering where the new Stumpy fits in, particularly on the strength/durability side.
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I may be selling my full suspension bike this year and I am considering going back to riding a hardtail. I’m pretty interested in the P.1 All Mountain after seeing it on the Specialized website. Have you gotten a chance to ride it yet? If so I would like to know how it compares to the other P.1 as a one-bike quiver.
I was wasting time surfing the internet dreaming about snow/ice free trails when I found one of those 10 Trail Tips You Need To Master type articles on the Mountain Bike Action website (I’m not a huge fan of MBA, but I was killing time). The list was all of the basic stuff you always read (i.e. looking ahead etc.), but they also had one tip of “Riding 80” meaning riding at a 80 rpm cadence. MBA said, “80 is the most efficient cadence you can use to turn the cranks over,” and that “That is the perfect compromise between muscle force and aerobic power.”
I have never really paid attention to the cadence that I average on a ride, I just try to ride what feels best and pushes my limits. Do you think that there really is an optimum cadence for mountain biking, if so is it the same for every rider? Do think that actively setting/monitoring cadence goals during a ride will improve ability?
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